Madurai's sweets split into two threads -- the traditional Tamil sweets most travel guides cover, and a Saurashtrian heritage thread that almost none of them do.
Prema Vilas on Town Hall Road is the city's reference address for Madurai Halwa -- ghee and wheat flour, rich and sticky, and a good takeaway since it keeps well during travel. Athirasam, a deep-fried rice flour and jaggery sweet, is also available here alongside New Visalam Sweet Stall's traditional Madurai-style version.
Sri Nagalakshmi Annexe is one of the only authentic Saurashtrian restaurants in Madurai, serving a cuisine brought by silk-weaver families from Gujarat in the 14th century. Kalkandu Sadam -- sugar-crystal rice with a delicate flavor -- is the signature dish. Sooji Appam, maida dough stuffed with sweet rava or coconut porridge and deep-fried, is worth going out of your way for. Roti Halwa, denser and more aromatic than standard halwa, rounds out the visit. The menu is limited, and calling ahead on weekdays is worth doing.
Made from the same fresh herbal greens base as Mooligai Juice, this halwa has an unusual, slightly bitter medicinal character you won't find described anywhere else. Sold only at Mooligai Pandi Kadai in the Race Course area, 10 AM to 1 PM, for roughly Rs 40 a piece.
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